Pencil Skirt Tutorial Part II Sewing the Skirt

Pencil Skirt Tutorial Part II Sewing the Skirt

Now we are going to use the pattern pieces we made Part I of the Pencil Skirt Tutorial, I know this looks like a big project but it really is not, I used lots of photos to make it easier for the beginning seamstress.

 Just a brief word about choosing fabrics, if you have not sewn a lot --there are two main types of sewing fabrics-woven and knit, and for our purposes--we will just say knit is stretchy, woven is not. This pattern will work for woven (non stretchy) fabric, if you make it from stretchy fabric it will end up too loose on the doll and not the fitted way a pencil skirt should be. Another tip is to use a light weight fabric--very heavy fabrics are harder to sew and the seams tend to look too bulky to be realistic on such a fitted garment. You can sew this skirt by hand, but it will be much quicker using the sewing machine. Here I am using a fabric that is the same front and back and this is probably a good way to start, if your fabric has a definite front and back you just need to ensure all your seems are on the backside of the fabric in the tutorial I call this the "wrong side"  of the fabric and the right side is the pretty side:)
You will need:
Fabric Remnant
Double fold Bias Tape about 5"
Sewing Machine
Needle and thread
Hook and  Eye closure

Lay out pattern pieces, Skirt Front and Skirt Back on your chosen fabric, make sure the Skirt Front is aligned with the fold. You will cut one Skirt Front and two Skirt Backs. Do not cut out the dart on the Skirt Back.

Use the pattern and a piece of chalk to mark the dart on the wrong side of both Skirt Backs

At this point you can add some decoration, top stitching, or maybe sew a  piece of ribbon or lace down the front or across front, whatever you like, on the denim skirt above for example I drew some guide lines in chalk and top stitched them using gold thread, you will do this on the right side of the fabric.

Fold the dart in half and sew down the chalk line on the wrong side of the fabric, you will want to use a  small stitch and back stitch once you get to the point of the dart.

Repeat on the other Skirt Back wrong side

 Pin one Skirt Back to the Skirt Front along the side seam, the right sides of the fabric together.

Sew the seam about 1/4" from the edge of the fabric, repeat for other Skirt Back.

Finish the seam--I used a zig zag stitch, you can serge this edge or trim with pinking shears or use fray check on the edge, the point is to keep this edge from fraying in the future. (that is my Crissy "sewing form" doll in the background:)-she's taking a nap)

Zig Zag finished seam

(Wrong side view)Both seams done

This skirt is not going to have a waist band, we are going to face the waist with bias tape, you could use a matching color bias tape if you like, it will not be showing in the finished project. Lay your skirt right side up, and bias tape fold side facing up as well, open the bias tape and pin the edge to the waist edge of the skirt.

Sew bias tape to skirt waist edge with a 1/4" seam allowance

Trim the fabric on the skirt above the sewing line, not the bias tape, this will "grade" the seam-- making it less bulky

Fold the bias tape to the back so that it does not show from the front side and iron it down well, cut off excess bias tape.

Turn bottom edge of skirt up 1/4" and iron, Zip zag to finish the narrow edge below the fold. At this point you can make the skirt whatever length you want just cut off the excess amount of fabric and then-turn, iron and finish.

Sew the seam across the the bottom, use could use matching thread so the hem disappears

Turn skirt inside toward you and fold skirt in half  lining up the back edges together, pin

Starting about 3/4"" from top edge sew back seam closed

Iron back seam open

finish edges of this seam

Turn skirt right side out and put the skirt on the doll

Fold edges under until they line up evenly side by side, this skirt will have a hook and eye closure, for a snap or velcro it will be a bit different-and that is another tutorial :)

Lookin' good

Sew down edges--you could use matching thread here too-or you could skip this step, once you sew the hook and eye on they will help hold the folded under edges in place.

To secure the facing a bit more, use matching thread and put a few stitches in to the side seam through the bias tape

Hand sew hook and eye closure.All done!

What do you think? With some practice this skirt can be sewn up in about 15 minutes, and all perfectly finished. If you give it a try I would love to see and post your results. My email is on my contact page. If you have any questions at all leave a comment-I am new at tutorials so I may have missed something. The true idea is that it should be fun and allow you express your style and creativity. Next tutorial--The Dolman Sleeve Top--Stay Tuned :)


  1. Hello from Spain: thanks for showing some pictures so detailed. Very goog tutirial. I will try to make the skirt.

    1. YAY! Marta send me a photo of your skirt if you make one-- I would love to see!

  2. espetacular esplicado me encanto felicidades cuando puedas pone mas jajaja un abraso gracias


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